Topic: 4dr 84 rabbit project (Read 2159 times)

greggearhead · « **Reply #25 on:** February 25, 2010, 06:59:19 AM »

Yeah, I wouldn't worry about the poly vs rubber issue until you need to replace them. For myself, I put poly bushes is almost all of my "sporting" daily drivers. Its slightly more 'noisy' but in my 97 GTI, you can't even tell. Don't worry about it.

And installing Poly is way easier than installing rubber. The rubber has to be squished and squeezed through it, the poly front bushings are 2 piece so slight in from either side.

Southcross · « **Reply #26 on:** February 25, 2010, 08:27:29 AM »

I agree... Polly!

pick up a polly kit from Prothane, BUT, throw away the grease shit it came with and use some general purpose synthetic grease (I prefer Mobile One Red grease) and grease the shit out of every contact surface... otherwise the squeaks will drive you mad LOL

oh Greg, FYI if you try to polly the Fox (when you get one), don't polly the front mount

Smokestack · « **Reply #27 on:** February 25, 2010, 08:52:30 AM »

I'd worry about wheel bearings, tierods and balljoints before bushings. 9 times out of 10 any slop in the suspension is either from one or all of those three combined. If your bushings haven't fallen apart then they are more than likely still good.

For what it's worth, I still don't think poly is good for a DD that you plan on keeping awhile. The one vehicle I had that was a 100% poly suspension was needing all the bushings replaced for the second time after 7 years. Granted, it was a truck so you might be able to squeeze more than 2.5 good years from them, but 99.9% of the miles on it were from just daily driving use. I've seen similar results from other long term use on poly bushings. Rubber will be good for another 20+ years, which is good considering that they are a PITA to put in sometimes. I personally have never had a need to change out any bushings in any of my VWs, including my old aircooleds. Now bearings, tierods and balljoints are a different story though.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #28 on:** February 25, 2010, 04:21:00 PM »

yeah i think i'll just say screw it and stick to the way volkswagen made it. rubber bushings it is.

Quote from: sad_rocc on February 25, 2010, 05:50:35 AM

I'm pretty sure everyone here has said to go with stock because poly isn't worth the headache. /issue

Don't you have a bunch of other things going on with the car at the moment that makes it so it can't even be driven? Suspension seems like it should be secondary to running.

i've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and gas tank with new float and filter. i have new plugs and wires just haven't put them in cause i need to get cap an rotor. car runs fine. no more sputtering, idles when cold. now i'm on to the next task which is supension. then i will do the brakes cause i have mk2 calippers and stub axles. if thats what there called. then tires. i think that will be the just of it. then i'll start makeing it my own. that is if i don't get bored of it. i found a caddy with a 16v that i'm eye balling now. i'm never happy.

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #29 on:** February 25, 2010, 06:18:05 PM »

lol. and again, welcome to the MkI world haha. How bad are your brakes vs. your tires?

sad_rocc · « **Reply #30 on:** February 25, 2010, 06:28:08 PM »

Ah, you got the tank in! Congrats!

Smokestack · « **Reply #31 on:** February 25, 2010, 08:56:15 PM »

Quote from: rockinveedubs on February 25, 2010, 04:21:00 PM

...that is if i don't get bored of it....

Buy new wheels.

A nice set of new wheels breaths life into any old project.

Seriously though, just stick with what you've got. Everything you just did to your car you'd have to do to whatever you pick up. May as well stay with something you already fixed. If the caddy you're talking about is the one I'm thinking of, don't get it unless you want to rip out the engine and stick it into your rabbit. That thing is more rust than metal.

It looks like your car is coming along nicely. With the suspension bits you're throwing at it it'll drive like a new car and put a big ole grin on your face.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #32 on:** February 26, 2010, 05:08:13 PM »

heck yeah. i love my car but i really want a 16v. that's the only reason i wanted the caddy but my grandpa won't let me have it probably. i asked the person if i could drop the motor andyank the wiring myself and throw him like $300 so we'll see. i dought it though. super nice motor for a super piece of crap.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #33 on:** February 26, 2010, 05:13:27 PM »

my brakes work fine but kinda make a scratchy noise in the front. probably just need new pads but i wanted to convert to discs in the rear. my tires are alright in the rear but the front are all dry rotted and getting sorta bald. i want to just get some steelies that are 15x? 4x100. i like the look of steelies.

if anyone has a set there wanting to part with let me know. i'm thinking 185 or 195 50 15's. maybe a 6.5" wheel?

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #34 on:** February 26, 2010, 11:26:26 PM »

I would swap the rears to the fronts for now. As for your brakes, why swap to rear discs?

greggearhead · « **Reply #35 on:** February 27, 2010, 07:28:30 AM »

1. Do NOT, repeat NOT bother with putting rear discs on. Will it improve the braking? Yes. Will it be worth it for you now? NO. Not at all. If you want a solid braking improvement, put on 10" front brakes from a 16V Scirocco (you can use early Audi 4000 calipers too). I have owned more Mk1 Chassis cars that I can remember, and some have been 4whl disc, and some haven't The best useable street brakes were actually 10" front discs and larger rear drums (pickup or Fox wagon).

2. You canNOT, repeat NOT put the front brakes on the rear. If you were a fabricator and wanted to make a completely custom setup, it could be done of course, but there is no way it can possibly just bolt onto the rear. Trust me - I researched into it heavily in the 90s when I was researching for ways to get around certain rules in SCCA. There was a factory race car that used the front rotors in the rear, but a custom caliper adapter and caliper and NO e-brake. Which is suxor on the street.

greggearhead · « **Reply #36 on:** February 27, 2010, 07:31:39 AM »

You know what - I am going to strongly recommend you get the "Watercooled VW Performance Handbook" by Greg Raven. Its an excellent place to start and a good reference tool when you are starting out. There is a 3rd edition out, so you might be able to pick up a 1st or 2nd edition used on ebay or half.com for cheap.

Smokestack · « **Reply #37 on:** February 27, 2010, 07:58:30 AM »

Quote from: greggearhead on February 27, 2010, 07:28:30 AM

2. You canNOT, repeat NOT put the front brakes on the rear...

I think he was talking about the tires.

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #38 on:** February 27, 2010, 09:23:14 AM »

^^ that I was, sorry for not specifying, as for your brakes, I agree with Greggearhead. I would upgrade to bigger front discs (16v Scirocco as stated above) And rebuild the rear drums. Will feel just as good as 4 wheel discs if you replace the shoes, drums, hardware, wheel cylinders etc.

greggearhead · « **Reply #39 on:** February 27, 2010, 12:18:34 PM »

Quote from: Smokestack on February 27, 2010, 07:58:30 AM

Quote from: greggearhead on February 27, 2010, 07:28:30 AM
2. You canNOT, repeat NOT put the front brakes on the rear...

I think he was talking about the tires.

Sorry. Brain fart - obvious to me now.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #40 on:** February 27, 2010, 03:20:52 PM »

vented rotors FTW

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #41 on:** February 28, 2010, 10:52:13 AM »

well i've already bought everything from the beam out. i was thinking slotted rotors front and rear. it would be super cool to get ABS from a gli or something though.

i don't know i just think it would be sorta nice to have discs. it'll probably cost the same either way. but maybe not seeing that i have to buy e-brake cables for the mk2, soft lines and a caliper rebuild kit puls rotors. i also here i need to get something else for the brakes system. some sorta valve or something. i can't remember what it's called.

greggearhead · « **Reply #42 on:** February 28, 2010, 11:11:39 AM »

Residual pressure valves, and a different master cylinder. It will cost you a lot more to convert to discs. IMO when you have some much else to do first, it doesn't make sense.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #43 on:** March 03, 2010, 12:20:03 AM »

Ben has a rear beam with discs and some line parts. His name on here is boner. I was going to get it but I have new Reese shoes and wheel bearings

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #44 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:29:36 AM »

i bought those teardrops from craigslist. the tires are pretty good. they look like there wanting to start cracking though so i need to stay on top of it. but now back to the struts. i want to get those Boge turbo gas struts but not sure where to look. i found some on abd and a few other sites but i don"t know if they come with everything like spring purches and all that. if someone can post a link of a place i can get the struts complet minus the springs that would be great. i don"t know anything about struts. i used to be into air-cooleds.

Smokestack · « **Reply #45 on:** March 06, 2010, 03:40:33 PM »

The only other things you'll need to buy are strut bearings. You will reuse some things off of your current struts, but those pieces don't wear out and would only be a waste of money and effort to replace.

justSean · « **Reply #46 on:** March 06, 2010, 06:07:56 PM »

Saw you rolling that rig today. You gotta drop it before you get a nosebleed!

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #47 on:** March 06, 2010, 10:50:44 PM »

Buy that suspension Greg has

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #48 on:** March 07, 2010, 09:03:45 AM »

Quote from: justSean on March 06, 2010, 06:07:56 PM

Saw you rolling that rig today. You gotta drop it before you get a nosebleed!

haha definitly. i don"t think my sportline springs would do to much for it though.

Quote from: scurvy_bandit on March 06, 2010, 10:50:44 PM

Buy that suspension Greg has

if your talking about the bilstein coilovers< i wish. i don't have $1000 to spend on parts unfortunitly.

greggearhead · « **Reply #49 on:** March 07, 2010, 09:20:07 AM »

You can cut your springs to get you by until you purchase some.

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Author Topic: 4dr 84 rabbit project (Read 2159 times)