Topic: 4dr 84 rabbit project (Read 2170 times)

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #50 on:** March 08, 2010, 03:29:42 PM »

i have eibach sportline springs so thats not an issue. there supposed to give me like an 1.8 to 2 inches of drop.

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #51 on:** March 08, 2010, 03:51:01 PM »

Are you going to use the stock struts?

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #52 on:** March 08, 2010, 05:14:38 PM »

i was going to order some boge turbo gas struts from euro sport accesories. i just don't know if they come the way they look in the picture. when you buy front struts they come like this right?

http://www.eurosportacc.com/kyb_bilstein_sachs-boge_struts_shocks_suspension.htm

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #53 on:** March 08, 2010, 10:17:36 PM »

usually yeah, then install them into the springs using a spring compressor.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #54 on:** March 08, 2010, 10:47:47 PM »

Greg has suspension.

greggearhead · « **Reply #55 on:** March 09, 2010, 06:42:00 PM »

Usually they are just inserts you replace in your housings. Not that hard. Call and ask them.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #56 on:** March 11, 2010, 05:28:34 PM »

alright. i feel dumb. i figured it out after looking at some pics. they just slide in to that tube and screw in. got it. haha. now i can get in gear and buy the darn things inserts.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #57 on:** March 11, 2010, 06:06:38 PM »

are the Boge Progas better than the Boge turbo gas struts? i read more about them and the turbo gas aren't meant for lowering springs. the Progas are preferred for lowered cars. but i read they bottom out. there not stiff enough. what should i do? i want to get my suspension done on spring break wich is in a week. i need some input.

Smokestack · « **Reply #58 on:** March 11, 2010, 08:27:29 PM »

You're stressing too much over this. I'd say do what Greg said and get the turbo gas struts. He's probably built up more mk1s than you'll ever see, so I'd trust him on this.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #59 on:** March 12, 2010, 03:42:49 PM »

i ordered the turbo gas inserts. they'll be here in like 4 or 5 days. i am also buying rubber bushings all the way around. Rack n pinion, trailing arm, and rear beam bushings. along with new strut bushings. then i want to get tie rod ends and ball joints. my car should drive like new.

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #60 on:** March 12, 2010, 03:55:18 PM »

nice. gonna ride great when you get all that in. I would recommend going to the junkyard and picking up the mount brackets for the driver and passenger side, get the new mounts pressed into that, then just swap them out on the car without too much downtime. When doing the pass. side mount I recommend taking out the lower alt. bracket cause it has a lip that is an absolute bitch to get the mount over, once that is out, it very simple to slide the lower alt. bracket over the mount and bolt it in.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #61 on:** March 15, 2010, 02:12:58 PM »

well... i got all the bushings and struts bearings. i got an e-mail saying that my order for my struts had been canceled cause i forgot to put money in my checking account. oops. but i think now i'm geting GR-2 gas adjust struts and shocks. those i just have to wait for a couple of days and i don't have to pay for shipping. i hope. now i just need to find time to get it all put together between work.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #62 on:** March 22, 2010, 02:36:59 PM »

i'm starting on the bushings tomarrow but i didn't know if i needed a grease for some sort of lubricant when i install them. there just rubber ones. not polly bushings.

Smokestack · « **Reply #63 on:** March 22, 2010, 03:02:35 PM »

Quote from: rockinveedubs on March 22, 2010, 02:36:59 PM

i'm starting on the bushings tomarrow but i didn't know if i needed a grease for some sort of lubricant when i install them. there just rubber ones. not polly bushings.

Short answer is no, then there's the long answer. If the bushing is in a metal sleeve (like the ones in the suspension arms and torsion beam) then no you don't want to use grease because it's a press fit and you don't want to promote it moving around after install. You might need a hydraulic press to put it in, or get creative with bench vises and c-clamps. If it's just bare rubber (like swaybar and steering rack bushings) you can, but all it really accomplishes is making the install messy and wasting grease.

Have you bought new tierod ends, balljoints, strut bearings, and wheel bearings yet? Replacing bushings is a waste of your time and money if you haven't already replaced those. 90% of steering/suspension slop is in those components.

greggearhead · « **Reply #64 on:** March 22, 2010, 03:06:54 PM »

DO NOT use regular grease on rubber. It will kill it in the long term. You can use a rubber safe grease like Dilectric grease, or some WD40 and probably be safe. They will likely need to be pressed in with a press.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #65 on:** March 23, 2010, 04:04:25 PM »

i have front and rear strut bearings and all the bushings except for the rear beam cause i have to special order them from volkswagen i guess. there like $128 a piece or something outrageous. i sorta wish i went poly. but i have the parts now. my ball joints look good. there not torn or anything. i do want to replace the tie rod ends. i also haven'y gotten wheel bearings. i need to start saving up again. i'm getting low on cash.

greggearhead · « **Reply #66 on:** March 24, 2010, 03:23:53 PM »

Let us know when you need wheel bearings done. I have the $400 tool to press them out if you don't have the knuckles out already. If you do, you can go to Napa or a machine shop and have them pressed out and in etc.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #67 on:** March 26, 2010, 01:37:12 PM »

i tell ya... this car is a nightmare. the other day i was drivimg and my axle fell off. had to look all around town for a 12 point and it cost me $8. well at least thats another special tool i have. the next day i'm driving into a parking lot and i hit a curb and blow out one of my new tires and put a small bend in one of my tear drops. i have a spare but its a 185 60 and my other tires are 185 65's. now i;m pulling to left pretty good. oil pan is leaking so i'm loosing oil pretty quick. if i take a turn to sharp it starts yelling at me and the oil light comes on. another thing added to my list of things needing to be done.

scurvy_bandit · « **Reply #68 on:** March 26, 2010, 01:39:42 PM »

The oil pan is an easy fix that can be done at the oil change. Sorry to hear about the teardrops. You can get them things all over the place!

0dd_j0b · « **Reply #69 on:** March 26, 2010, 01:53:40 PM »

ouch. I hate crubs.

As Dave said, the oil pan is pretty easy. just a lot of bolts.
for the bolts on the axle, use the locking stuff that I cant for the life of me remember the name to.

Random_Task · « **Reply #70 on:** March 26, 2010, 02:52:48 PM »

Quote from: 0dd_j0b on March 26, 2010, 01:53:40 PM

ouch. I hate crubs.

As Dave said, the oil pan is pretty easy. just a lot of bolts.
for the bolts on the axle, use the locking stuff that I cant for the life of me remember the name to.

. it's called thread

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #71 on:** March 26, 2010, 02:58:53 PM »

yeah. there are alot of bolts. but theres those ones that are sorta tucked inside the bell housing also that are a pain to get to. hod do i get to them?

Smokestack · « **Reply #72 on:** March 26, 2010, 03:08:52 PM »

Quote from: rockinveedubs on March 26, 2010, 02:58:53 PM

yeah. there are alot of bolts. but theres those ones that are sorta tucked inside the bell housing also that are a pain to get to. hod do i get to them?

Take off the inspection plate on the transmission. Two 10mm headed bolts going into the bellhousing that you have to take off and you pull the plate off. When you use the inverted 12 point bit use a long extension on it and tap the end of it with a hammer to seat it good into the head of the bolt. You run the risk of stripping the bolt head otherwise. You can get a lifetime alignment from firestone for the next time you hit a curb.

rockinveedubs · « **Reply #73 on:** March 26, 2010, 03:12:55 PM »

and aonther thing. when i try to be cool or just getting up to speed for the highway shifting into any gear to fast it sounds like the clutch is slipping. i know this has been a problem with air cooled clutches but could my main seal be leaking on my clutch or is it just bad? i actually saw oil coming from that plate one time. a little drop.

sad_rocc · « **Reply #74 on:** March 26, 2010, 03:17:11 PM »

Quote from: rockinveedubs on March 26, 2010, 02:58:53 PM

yeah. there are alot of bolts. but theres those ones that are sorta tucked inside the bell housing also that are a pain to get to. hod do i get to them?

Yeah those ones next to the tranny are a real bitch.

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Author Topic: 4dr 84 rabbit project (Read 2170 times)